Socialization

Golden Retriever Puppy Training

How to: Socializing your Dog or Puppy (the right way)

There is a important distinction between a ‘social dog,’ and a dog that is ‘dog obsessed.’

What people want is a dog that is happy to engage with other dogs and people without dog aggression, or human aggression of any kind. What they actually end up creating can be a different story.

It seems like the obvious solution is to introduce your dog to as many dogs and people as possible. But, there’s so much more to it! The interaction itself must be a positive experience for your dog! If you see your dog avoiding the dog or person you are trying to introduce them to; If they are attempting to move away, make themselves small, or if you find yourself saying things like, “it’s okay….”, your dog is NOT having a great experience! There are steps you must take to ensure your dog walks away from that interaction thinking, “hey, that was easy.” We don’t want them to be like, “OH MY GOSH, THAT WAS THE BEST THING EVER!!!!” and we also don’t want, “THAT SUCKED… PLEASE, don’t make me do that again.” We want something lukewarm; medium if you will. Let me explain…..

If we are going for Dog Social:

Your dog can see another dog (off in the distance) and take it or leave it. Social dogs don’t get frustrated when they can’t access other dogs, and they don’t drag their owners to get to them.

While your dog is engaged with other dogs, they are still aware of you (if you feel like your dog is “blind” to your presence, your dog is not socializing in a healthy way).

When your dog sees a dog friend, they can quickly and easily be brought back under control, even if they are excited initially.

During play, your dog is easy to recall and refocus.

 

Dog Neutral: It’s important to note that **most mature dogs fall into this category**. Dog Neutral does not mean unsocialized.

Your dog is selective about its dog-friends. It doesn’t always enjoy playing with other new, stranger adult dogs or may have to be introduced in a thoughtful way.

Your dog probably grew up with the dogs it likes, and those relationships are friendly and fun.

It retreats, or growls and postures, when another (stranger adult) dog gets in their face or tries to sniff them.

When stranger dogs try to play, they move away and seem disinterested.

While they don’t enjoy playing with strange dogs, they are able to be near other dogs, or pass other dogs on or off-leash as long they don’t ‘get in their face.’

These dogs are usually tolerant of, and willing to play with puppies.

Think of how YOU behave in public. Is it appropriate to run up and hug every stranger you see? How about banter (joking around) or wrestling? It doesn’t connote that you are a mean person, it simply shows you are aware of behavioral norms. Some behaviors that were totally acceptable as a child are frowned upon as an adult. The same is true with Dogs. We don’t typically accept overly touchy, clingy, childish behavior from friends. Those are considered Toxic.

Toxic Dog Behavior

Stage One Clingon: When your dog sees another dog in the distance it pulls hard on the your leash. You can ‘sometimes’ wrestle them back into compliance. Trying to use treats to control their behavior is ‘hit or miss’ when trying to refocus.

Stage Two Clingon: Your dog is pulling so hard on the leash, it compels you to explain your dog’s behavior with “He’s just so excited…” Treats are as useless as your leash. You dog is difficult to refocus until the other dog is far away.

Stage Three Clingon: While you’re trying to explain how excited your dog is, the other people can’t hear you over your dog’s barking. You can’t reach your treats without losing your leash and your dog. Walking your dog is becoming more of an upper body workout.

Stage Four Clingon: Seeing another dog in the distance gives YOU anxiety. Taking your dog for a walk is embarrassing. They are basically unaware of your presence in search of other things to interact with. They barely flick an ear at you even if you (repeatedly) call their name. Barking is become unbearable.

Stage Five Dog Obsessed: The thought of walking your dog gives you pause. Hiding behind trees and cars when you spot another dog in the distance is the norm. You know there’s a problem. Is the Dog Park a solution?

First, the Dog Park and Dog Daycare is rarely the way to go, as (as counter-intuitive as that may seem), because they can actually facility Cling-on behavior.

If you notice your dog becoming a Cling-on, the best time to intervene is BEFORE STAGE THREE. Your dog needs proper dog training to retain or mitigate their social behavior. If Cling-on behavior has developed, the goal is to get Dog Neutral. Dog training is helpful, but not miraculous. If you are teetering on stage four or five, life-long management and mitigation of the dog’s behavior is in order; dog training will *help but may not fix the problem. At that point the dog may struggle to return to Dog Neutral, and Dog Social will likely never be an option.

Tips for Socializing your Dog

Focus on long-term doggy relationships (friend, neighbor, and family dogs). Monitor their play and intervene when things appear to be getting too amped. Don’t wait until there is aggressive behavior. Monitor their body language and step in early. If you need additional guidance, contact a dog trainer.

Avoid meeting strange dogs your dog will never see again.

Reward your dog for ignoring other dogs on walks. I know…. That doesn’t sound right!? If you want your dog to like other dogs, isn’t ignoring them the opposite? NO, not in dog psychology! Pairing a reward event with the presence of other dogs helps build that positive association, without the adrenaline and cortisol rush, or the potential for the interaction to go south!

If you feel like your dog isn’t getting enough exercise, treadmill train, teach them how to tug, and/or hire a dog walker or dog hiker, instead of doggy daycare or dog parks.

Up N Atom Dog Training can help you reach your training goals through various dog training program options. We offer dog training in the Cleveland and Northeast Ohio area, so reach out and let us get your dog on track.

Five dogs sit next to each other in a field.

How to Properly Socialize a Dog

As someone who has dedicated their entire life to dogs, dog training, and what makes a dog tick, I have deep empathy for dog owners who don’t understand their dogs behavior the way that I do. Naturally, there are days that I wish people researched how to best raise a canine the way they would a snake, ferret, or turtle, but I also acknowledge that dogs are unique in the role they play in our lives. I could ramble on and on about plenty of overlooked elements involved in inviting a predatory animal into our homes, but by far I think one of the most misunderstood aspects of raising dogs is “socialization”.

I remind myself that the order of operations is most commonly:

1. Find a puppy

2. Try to train the puppy the best known way

3. Look for a dog trainer if issues emerge

And that most people are trying their absolute best with the information that they have. There is so much bad information out there, it makes sense people are confused.

Almost every single phone consult I do, whether it be for a 12 week old puppy or a 6-year-old adult dog exhibiting aggression, well-meaning dog owners tell me about their dogs socialization experiences, or lack thereof. Some dog owners shamefully admit to me that they “have not socialized their dog enough” and that’s why they believe their dog is exhibiting x, y, z behavioral problems. Or, they exclaim that they have made sure to do lots of socialization but are still seeing some issues. The thing is, the things they believe they are doing to benefit their dog is often the exact reason they are struggling with them.

Why are these “well socialized” dogs reactive, anxious, aggressive, suffering from separation issues, crate phobic, not food motivated?…

For one, society — and society’s expectations of dogs — has changed. What once was “a dog will be a dog” is now “my dog is bad, because it doesn’t accept strangers touching them, children climbing on top of them during mealtime, they are not behaving at the brewery at 8 months old, they protect the property from people I know, and they are pulling me towards dogs/bikes/rabbits on leash”.

If you take the word “socialization” and trade it for “neutral exposure”, we can usually see things a bit clearer. Socialization today has become a poisoned word in dog ownership. Is your dog afraid of new people? Socialize them. Are they aggressive towards other dogs? They need more socialization. Is your dog too excited when greeting guests? You guessed it, socialization. The word is regurgitated from pet owners, dog trainers, veterinarians, and doggy daycare workers without much explanation on how to accomplish it. It’s a seemingly straightforward word that is interpreted to mean “if your dog has more interactions with stuff, they’ll get used to said stuff and get over it”. But that’s -not- how behavior works. A shy dog will not become less shy if they are flooded with interactions with strangers. A dog-aggressive dog will not become dog social if you take it to the dog park. There are limits to what physical interaction, exposure, training, and counter-conditioning can do for a dog. While there are absolutely things we can do to help dogs make better choices, we cannot change our dogs personality and social spectrum. Most dogs become less social with age, and that doesn’t make them a bad dog. But we can certainly create major behavioral problems through inappropriate socialization.

Socialization for Puppies
Socialization is much more than interaction with dogs and people.

Nowadays, I find “under socialized” dogs are the rarity. Most dogs are either enrolled in training at a young age, brought to dog parks or daycares from puppyhood on, or are allowed to interact with random dogs and people on a regular basis without practicing -ignoring- an equal ratio of them. Most do all of the above. In such a dog-friendly world, it makes sense. Most puppies are not being shut off in one house for their critical socialization period, because people know now that early socialization is important when raising a puppy. What they don’t know is that allowing too much interaction is also a major no-no, and so they enroll in puppy class, take their puppy to daycare and dog parks, allow on leash greetings, ask their friends and family members to come over (with their dogs)… all the while, not focusing on calm, neutral behavior around dogs and people. Additionally, we are currently living in a world that is depending heavily on dog parks, dog daycare, and Rover sitters to care for and entertain our dogs, and our emphasis on good behavior has, unfortunately, not kept up.

To pinpoint on the focus of this post, here is what I guide puppy owners to do:

1. Focus on engagement skills, name recognition, and capturing good leash walking on a long-line in low-distraction environments.

2. Teach your puppy to enjoy working with you for food rewards

3. Only allow your puppy to physically interact with other people and dogs who will be a long-term part of their lives; groomers and veterinary staff, friends, family members, and their dogs, neighbors, and dog training staff/clients.

4. Utilize your crate at home throughout the day, and when you have guests over.

5. Don’t allow out of control play with dogs/people in the house.

6. Take your puppy to new areas to train, where the goal is having a great time with YOU, while ignoring dogs and people.

7. Do not allow strangers or strange dogs to come up to your puppy on leash.

8. Avoid dog parks and daycare (unless you are enrolled in a Day Train program, where a dog trainer is overseeing all interaction).

9. Enroll in puppy classes where playtime is not the focus.

10. Make sure your puppy is confident, calm, and focused during all outings for at least the first year of their life.

And even when you do everything right, at the end of the day genetics are going to play a major role on your dogs level of sociability. Which leaves many thinking.. so what is the point of socialization?

Dogs are Individuals with Genetic and Environmental Behavioral Impacts
Dogs have individual personalities that are heavily influenced by their genetic makeup.

Proper socialization is about building as much confidence as possible, without creating a demanding monster who cannot focus in the world around them. It is about trying to set our dog up to be the best dog they can be, with or without a solid genetic backing. A well-socialized puppy who is genetically nervous will probably still be a nervous dog, but they hopefully will not turn into a reactive or outright aggressive dog. A well-socialized, social dog will likely avoid obsession-based reactive behaviors if we do things right. We are just trying to stack the odds in our favor, by not under-doing it, but also not overdoing it. We will not change the dog inside, but we may avoid problematic fallout if we do things correctly.

Next time you think about the word “socialization”, think about what you want to see in your dog long-term. Focus on teaching your dog how to cope around strangers, other dogs, and other distractions such as bicycles, squirrels, and strollers, and train for that picture, instead. Allow interactions with people and dogs that you know and trust, and create an environment that harbors structure and trust over excitement and franticness. While your dog may become more selective with age, setting a good foundation for neutrality early on may help prevent some serious concerns later. Socialization is important, indeed.. but only if we know what it is we’re actually talking about.

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